Put the SD card in your computer and open the Compressor. You do not need to copy the photos off the card first — the app reads straight from it.
Step 1: Pick the source folder
Click the Source folder (with subfolders) picker and choose the folder holding your camera’s photos. On an SD card this is usually inside DCIM — a folder with a name like 200TLCPR.
The app looks through subfolders too, so if your camera splits photos across several folders you can point it at the parent and it will find them all.
There is also a link for Or pick a single timelapse video file → if your camera records video rather than stills. The app pulls the individual frames out of the video for you.
Step 2: Check the output folder
The app suggests an output folder automatically — a folder next to your source named something like 200TLCPR_FeedbunkAI_Ready.
Check it is on your computer’s drive, not on the SD card. The suggestion is based on your source folder, so if you picked a folder on the card the output may land there too. The card does not have room, and a job that runs out of space partway through has to be started again. See Choosing an output folder and free disk space.
Step 3: Read the scan summary
Before it starts, the app scans your folder and tells you what it found:
- How many images and how many videos
- How many frames it will pull out of any videos
- How many output files to expect
- Total size in, estimated size out
- Disk space needed during processing
- Free disk on output drive
This is your chance to catch a mistake. If the image count is far lower than you expected, you may have pointed at the wrong folder, or the card may have filled up mid-run.
Files stored in the cloud
If some of your photos live in OneDrive or iCloud and have not actually been downloaded to the computer, the app says so and skips them. To include them, right-click the folder and choose Always keep on this device (OneDrive) or Download Now (iCloud), wait for them to download, and run the scan again.
Step 4: Start
Click to start compressing. You will see a progress bar with the percentage, how many files are done out of how many are expected, the speed it is running at, an estimated finish time, and the file it is working on right now. Anything it cannot read is listed as an error rather than stopping the job.
The app uses all your computer’s processor cores, so it will be busy while it runs. It is fine to leave it and come back.
You can close it mid-job. Compression picks up where it left off next time you run it — already-finished files are not redone.
If you cancel a job that has already processed a lot of files, the app warns you that finished files stay in the output folder but the rest will not be processed until you run it again.
What comes out
Photos come out as WebP images at 1280×720, with the original capture time preserved exactly. That is the same size and format our servers use, so nothing extra is lost when they arrive.
Everything is written flat into the one output folder. If your source had subfolders, those names become part of the filenames so nothing collides.
Advanced settings
There is a collapsed Advanced settings section with Quality, Max width, Max height, video interval, and a “force re-process every file” option. As the app itself notes, Defaults match Feedbunk AI’s server pipeline (1280×720, quality 90).
Leave these alone. Changing them does not improve your results and may make photos we cannot use. The one that is occasionally worth touching is the video interval, and only if you are extracting from a very long video — 0 = auto takes every frame.
Next
When it finishes you get an Open output folder button, a Run another batch button, and the upload panel. Carry on with Upload straight from the app.